Any advice would be great. Answer 10 months ago. I like he look of black walnut but it seems to be pretty finicky. One live edge table I built has a natural seam that raised out of the wood after finishing.
This was after the wood had dried for over a year. I resanded and refinished and it has done it again but not so bad. I did put a finish coat of polyurethane on even the bottom of the table. I'm not going to do that again. I don't think random spots of epoxy would cause issues but if you coated the entire underside maybe it make moisture issues worse.
Answer 2 years ago. Thanks for your enquiry. Bowing can be a difficult issue to solve. The problem being it can be caused by a number of factors, moisture in wood, humidity, temperature of cure etc etc. All play a part and can have an effect at different stages of the cure too.
Often all is fine then the heat of the cure dries the wood a bit or as it cools and cures, changes in humidity can play havoc. You can route the surface flat but it depends on having the material thickness to play with. Question 1 year ago on Step 1. Dear All, Answer 1 year ago. Hi, thank you for your message. Reply 1 year ago. Dear Sirs, Very interesting you products, Please supply a Price List of your products together with instructions on use of them. Is there any person at "Glass Cast" to whom I can direct my emails, instead using this form of communication?
Looking forward hearing from you very soon, Yours, Claus-Peter Moeller. Hi Claus-Peter, We have a website www. Best wishes, GlassCast Resin. Question 1 year ago. You need to overpour on the last layer which would get the blue resin on the 'riverbanks'. How do you then get it off so the blue is only in the river? You could put the whole slab through a thicknesser or use a drum sander if you have access to the equipment. We didn't so set up a router over the slab on a bridge as we and routed the surface all over by making multiple passes.
Question 1 year ago on Introduction. Hello and thank you for the nice tutorial. All content copyright C Easy Composites Ltd, All rights reserved. You need to enable JavaScript to run this app. The very best in clear epoxy resin, pigments and effects.
EX VAT. All Products. Jarek P. What is the widest a table like this can be? I mean how wide the resin river can be to be strong enough?
Hi Jarek, the table could be very wide indeed. Of course you need to support the table correctly with your legs or mitred sides like we do in this video. Ark Angel. Does the epoxy resin work as glue holding the wood to itsself? Does the wood ever separate from the resin? The bond to the wood will be very strong indeed. Epoxy is used in demanding structural applications with wood, such as wooden boat hull construction.
It would be almost unthinkable for the epoxy to delaminate from the wood but worth remembering that the strength of the joint would only be as strong as the wood itself which might not be too great if the wood is rotten or flaky etc.
Why do you put a thin layer of resin on the bottom and top of the wood if you just going to sand it off? It stops the wood from 'breathing' during the cure. When the wood breathes it can release air bubbles into the main body of the resin meaning that even though you probably choose to sand the bottom off, the main river would be spoiled by air bubbles that have come out of the bottom and got stuck in the main body of the visible river.
The top is much less important to seal but we showed it because many customers choose to resin pour over the top of the wood and leave it with a resin finish, in which case ensuring that face is bubble free too would be important. At higher temperatures, the risk of the resin having a runaway exotherm is higher, so to compensate you may need to pour thinner layers to ensure that doesn't happen.
Andrey Shindler. This is the purpose of the sealing coat which is applied with a brush prior to the main pour; it prevent air from being displaced out of the wood and into the resin and is a very important step to ensure a bubble free finish.
Kimberley Young. Did you use a wood-stabilizing product before applying resin? I need to; what product do you recommend for this pre-epoxy? No, it was just properly seasoned and dried timber. However, as you can see in the video we do seal the wood on all faces with a thin layer of epoxy first.
Hanaa Zeid. Great video! What grits of sanders do you use, and do you apply anything on the wood before sanding it down or is the wood sanded dry?
As we routed the surface, we worked from very coarse papers all the way up to We used Danish oil on the wood before giving the resin its final polish up.
David Smart. We did not sand the cuts at all. The adhesive is liquid enough that it fills in the marks on both surfaces leaving the clear see through joint as you could see in our video. You don't get a real river look. How to get the layers progressively darker with depth. I have seen pictures of such a river table online.
You would need to do multiple layered pours, each layer with a different tint of blue so that you get the darkening effect the deeper it is. Dan Helfgott. For the polishing step at the end, would any polishing compound work and does it slightly abrade the wood surrounding the 'river' surface? NW1 is a 'diminishing compound' which means it starts with quite a coarse cutting action and then gets finer and finer all the way to a high gloss.
It's also designed for hard plastics like epoxy so cuts a lot faster without building up too much heat in the resin, which is something you'd need to be careful of especially using compounds that are struggling to cut the epoxy. As for the surrounding wood, actually it didn't seem to cause any problems there are all. We did experiment with some of the green tape to protect the wood but in the end found it wasn't necessary - I think the Danish oil sealed the wood sufficiently to protect it.
Tod Anthony. Could plexiglass be used instead of the Polypropylene Sheet? Very novice here, Can you advise on good release agents? Waxes, tapes, etc Release agents on plexiglass can be quite tricky; wax is difficult to reliably get down onto plexiglass, PVA will fish-eye away and chemical release agents such as Easy-Lease can attack the acrylic. You could apply Flash Release Tape listed on our site over the plexiglass but that would be quite expensive and a hassle.
It would probably be easier to pull a release film tight over the whole sheet you'll find unperforated release film on our website or to just swap the plexiglass for something else like polypropylene sheet or real glass which would be much easier to treat with a chemical release agent. You would need a release agent to ensure the resin does not stick.
Yes you can make it as opaque as you want. You can vary the amount of tinting pigments to get a darker or lighter shade. If you want it totally opaque, we also stock a range of epoxy compatible pigment dispersions that will give you an opaque colour. DJ Miss Vixen.
Will this affect the outcome of the resin? Lower temperatures mean the cure times are much longer, the resin is thicker and thus it is harder to self degas and also, it leaves it vulnerable to moisture damage especially if it is a cold semi-outdoor workshop. Some viewers are mentioning that with high gloss finish, over time you end up with lots of micro scratches.
Does your product suffer the same fate. Ultimately any surface, even glass, would end up with some surface scratches over time with wear. As clear casting resins go, GlassCast is the toughest we have found and if eventually you do get some surface scratches, they can be polished out restoring the high gloss finish.
Luke Whitelaw. You certainly could if you wanted a full resin top but we wanted the distinct difference in look and feel between the wood and the resin. Abdalla Ghobj. Nice work! If i may ask, what is the difference between epoxy used for tables and the epoxy used for floor?? What type of colors should i use for epoxy tables?? Hi Abdalla, This project uses a casting resin which works in deep sections whereby flooring epoxies, including our GlassCast3 are intended for thinner coatings of Triple If you're going to cut the whole surface off with a router at the end, probably don't need to worry about any dust settling on top at the resin curing stage.
This is true but there's always an outside chance that dust or dirt could sink down into the resin below the surface that you're going to sand off so it doesn't hurt to keep things tidy. Also, not everyone will route the surface flat, if you were leaving the whole table with a resin surface and so you'd poured more resin over the whole surface then you would probably be able to get away with just polishing the surface, in which case dust or dirt would be more of a problem.
Ryan m. So, mixing up a batch of tinted resin and hardener It won't go off solid of stored in a sealed tub.? Also how would I clean my tools, brushes, mixing pots etc.? Hi Ryan, yes, it would set solid if you mixed tinted resin and hardener and left it in a sealed tub. In this tutorial we tint the resin but we only mix it with its hardener when we do each 'pour'.
Any resin that's been mixed with hardener will cure, no matter how you store it well, apart from freezing it perhaps. To clean your tools, cups etc. Kevin Ball. This might sound like a dumb question, but wouldn't the wood blocks being clamped down on create imperfections in the table? The table in the tutorial measured 1. Mix in the usual way for 3 minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of the pot before transferring to a 2nd bucket double potting and mix again, then allow to stand for a few minutes before pouring.
Pour the mix all over the surface of the table, then using a notched resin spreader move the resin around the surface. Use the spreader to push the liquid up to the taped edge and check for bubbles. Sometimes bubbles will try and cling on to the tape around the edges so use a spreader or mixing stick to dislodge them. Do not use heat to remove bubbles around the tape as this may shrink the tape and damage the retaining tape and could cause leakages.
This will need to cure for 24 hours before moving on to the final step. Check the surface is fully cured by testing with a gloved finger then the barrier tape can be removed.
To remove the meniscus left around the edges and neaten the sides of the table, the table top was trimmed on a table saw to take off a few millimetres. Alternatively you could use a power planer if you have access to one and on a table of this size the right result could be reached quite easily and quickly. Follow up the trimming by sanding the sides of the table taking care not to touch the top surface of the slab , work up through the grits from grit all the way up to grit.
Don't move on to the next grit until all marks are removed from the previous grit. When sanding it is always worth taking the time to do a thorough job to achieve the best results. The final step is to flip the table over and apply the legs, we chose these boxed industrial legs in a matte charcoal grey to compliment the forged carbon fibre. As always with a project like this the style of legs and finish all comes down to personal preference.
Here are a few important things to keep in mind when looking after your epoxy resin table:. Instead use coasters or heat proof mats. If you do find that hot objects have marked the surface it can be flatted and polished again to remove any marks. However, common with just about all materials of this nature, prolonged exposure to UV light, particularly direct sunlight, can eventually cause some change in the appearance of the resin.
However, accidental damage can be caused by sharp objects scraping over the surface of the resin or from things being dropped onto it.
If this occurs, these can be polished out using the same process that was used for the initial sanding and polishing ; i. Both finishes look incredible - the polished river against the natural grain of the wood complement each other beautifully and the super hi-gloss surface really turns up the natural definition in the grain of the sycamore and amplifies the light reflections with the forged carbon fibre is incredible. We would love to hear what you think of this project, be sure to let us know what you think and if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask.
I was looking for a new angle of attack when it came to resin tables. This is perfect. Thank you for the Instructable! Reply 3 months ago. More by the author:. We're lucky enough to have a saw room at GlassCast HQ and have access to the tools needed on site, if you don't have access to this machinery, it is possible that the timber merchant you sourced your wood from could do the following for you; Cut the slab down the middle Put the slab through a thicknesser to reduce work later and flatten any twisting in the piece.
Airborne Dust and Contamination Whilst the resin is still in the early stages of its cure, it is important to keep airborne dust and contamination to a minimum. Epoxy Resin For Your Project The resin used in this tutorial is GlassCast 50, this is specially developed for use alongside natural wood to create professional quality projects. Flip the planks so that they create a river channel - placing the two live-edges to face each other Remove any loose material from the live-edges, like bark Key the live-edge with coarse abrasive paper grit this will ensure a good bond with the resin Clean up the wood using a vacuum cleaner or brush and if needed, damp cloth It's now time to construct a mould box around the planks, to do this you will need to lay out the planks and decide how wide you would like your forged carbon river to be.
To make the demoulding process easy, cover the bases of the small blocks of wood with release tape and use below the bridging timbers, this will stop the blocks sticking to the resin Then clamp the slabs, battens and blocks into position, this will also help to take out some of the gentle curvature in the planks if present It's worth noting that the place you set up the project needs to be a suitable place for the pour and where it can remain until the resin is fully cured.
To work out the area we will convert the measurements from centimetres to metres as follows: 1. Fill the resin to line A and the hardener to line B. Then combine the resin by mixing slowly and steadily to minimise bubbles for 3 minutes, ensuring that you periodically scrape the sides and bottom of the cup. Then pour the mixture into a 2nd clean cup and repeat the mixing process for a further 3 minutes.
This process is called double-potting and is to ensure that any unmixed resin from the bottom or sides of the pot do not make it on to the project.
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